How do I measure a Bottom Bracket?
Bottom Brackets are designated by 2 pieces of
information. Bottom bracket shell width and spindle
length. The bottom bracket shell is the part of
the frame into which the BB threads in. All bottom
bracket shell sizes are 68mm, 70mm, or 73mm. Measuring
the shell is very easy it can be determined quite
simply by turning your bike upside down and measuring
the width of the frame material that the bottom
bracket resides in. To find the spindle length
first remove the crank arms. Then measure the
length of the spindle in millimeters from end
to end. If your crankset is attached with nuts
as opposed to bolts, do not measure the extended
threaded portions of the spindle.
If you are replacing a B.B and
are using your old crank, you'll want a replacement
B.B with the same spindle length. If you are installing
a new crank, you will want to use the spindle
length recommended by the crank manufacturer.
Different styles of bottom
brackets.
I.S.I.S
The i.s.i.s International standard is used on
bottom brackets from Race Face, Tru Vativ and
others. Isis uses a splined system similar to
(but not compatible) with Shimano. Isis
cranks and bottom brackets are available from
a variety of manufacturers, including Race Face
and Tru Vativ.
Square taper.
Conventional square taper bottom brackets are
becoming less common on both mountain and road
bikes. This style of B.B is identified by the
square mounting hole in the cranks and square
shape in bottom bracket spindle.
HollowTech I
The Shimano HollowTech I line of bottom brackets are splined so you will have to use a Shimano splined crankset. The Shimano XTR cranksets are only compatible with Shimano XTR bottom brackets. LX and XT bottom brackets are only compatible with LX or XT cranksets.
HollowTech II / X-Type / MegaExo
This is the newest bottom bracket technology. These types of bottom brackets are used with a two piece crankset. The drive side crank arm and spindle are constructed into one piece and the non-drive side simply clamps on to the spindle. Not only does this create better torque it also allows for the crankset to be lighter as a whole. These outboard bearing systems are considerably strong and lightweight.
Choosing the right v brakes
for your mountain bike The most common type
of brakes are still V-brakes These brakes are
typically cable operated and work by squeezing
brake pads to the rim. In order to use V-brakes,
you need to have the appropriate v-brake post
braze-ons on your frame and fork. Most bikes are
equipped with V-brakes and braze-ons as they come
from the factory, and can be easily upgraded to
different V-brakes if you desire. Any type of
hub can be used on a bike with V-brakes. Since
all V-brakes are pulled with standard brake cables,
any V-brake compatible brake lever can typically
be used.
Disc Brakes
Disc brakes are gaining in popularity. This style
of brakes works by squeezing brake pads against
a rotor mounted on the bike's hub. Because disc
brakes offer more powerful braking, they are typically
used on more aggressive bikes, such as those used
for downhilling and freeriding. Some systems are
actuated by a steel cable, while others use hydraulic
fluid.
In order to use disc brakes, your frame or fork
must have appropriate mounting holes on your frame,
and fork. You'll need a set of discs which are
compatible with your frame's mounting holes. Additionally,
your hubs must be disc brake compatible so that
the rotor can be mounted. Disc brakes are typically
sold as a set which includes the calipers, rotor,
and brake lever. Please ask our tech support for
any additional questions.
When I order a Cassette what
Gear range is right for me?
When ordering a cassette the numbers you see relate
to the number of teeth on the small and largest
cogs. A smaller first number will give you more
top end speed, while a larger second number will
give you an easier gear for climbing. A closer
ratio between cassettes will also have smoother
shifting. Racers like to have closer ratio so
that they can have smooth acceleration and may
not have to do really hard climbing.
Newer riders will want to choose a cassette that
has a comfortable upper range. Racers choose one
of the cassettes with a smaller cog, and a narrower
range. If you have any questions about choosing
the correct Cassette please call our technical
support department at 800-585-4137.
What chain is compatible with
my bike?
Current mountain and road bikes use 9 speed drivetrains.
Using a 8 speed chain will not be compatible with
your 9 speed set up. Purchase a chain that is specific
with your 9speed set up, or 8 speed. For awesome
results choose a high quality chain from Shimano,
or Sram.
How do I install my chain?
The first thing to consider when installing a chain,
is the chain length. There are some methods that
you can use to find out your chain length any of
these methods may appeal to your situation. The
existing chain method is simple before removing
the old chain, check the bike for acceptable length.
Cut the new chain relative to the old chain length
and there you go. Second method (largest cog to
largest chainring) Remove your existing chain shift
the front derailleur over the largest chainring,
and the rear derailluer on the smallest cog. Simply
wrap the chain around the largest front chainring
and around the largest rear cog. Pull the chain
tight, and note the closest rivet where the two
could be joined. Then subtract two rivets you can
then string the chain through the both derailleurs
and check that the chain can be shifted onto all
gears without tension, or sag.
Note; Always make sure your chain is long enough
to be shifted onto the big chainring, and the largest
ring at the same time. If your chain is too short
this can damage your chain, and your derailleurs.
How to measure your chain rings?
Chainrings are usually stamped with sizes (58/94)
5-arm compact, (74/110) 5-arm standard or (64/104)
4-arm. To select one, you'll need to know three
things. The number of mounting bolts 4,or 5 arm.
Second the number of teeth on the chainring, and
last the Bolt Circle Diameter (BCD). You can count
each individual teeth on your chainrings to obtain
the correct sizing. The bolt circle diameter is
equal to the diameter of an imaginary circle drawn
through the center of the bolts which secure the
chainring to the cranks, measured in millimeters.
Regardless of whether the crank has 4 arms or
5 arms, the BCD is measured the same way. There
are three different sets of Bcd's are common on
mountain bikes. First a 58mm (inner) and 94mm
(middle, outer). Second is 74mm (inner) and 110mm
(middle,outer) set up. Third is a 64mm (inner)
and 104 (middle, outer) configuration. If you
have any questions about choosing the correct
chainrings, Please call our Technical Support
Department at 800-585-4137.
Are 9 speed chainrings compatible with a 8
speed set up.?
No, using the incorrect ring type can bring many
problems for example: over- shifts unsuccessful
shifts- skipping and chain suck. Always use the
appropriate chain and chainring combination for
flawless shifting.
What is my Shoe/Clothing size?
General Fit Guide for Men's Clothing
S
M
L
XL
XXL
Chest
34-36
38-40
42-44
46-48
50-52
Neck
14-14.5
15-15.5
16-16.5
17-17.5
18-18.5
Sleeve
32-33
33-34
34-35
35-36
36-37
Waist
28-30
32-34
36-38
40-42
44-46
Hips
35-37
39-41
42-44
45-47
48-50
Inseam
31
32
33
34
35
Actual sizes vary by manufacturer.
Women's
Fit Guid
S
M
L
XL
Bust
32-34
34-36
37-39
40-42
Sleeve
30-31
31-32
32-33
33-34
Waist
24-26
27-29
30-32
32-34
Hips
35-36
37-39
40-42
43-45
Inseam
29
30
31
32
Actual sizes vary by manufacturer.
Cycling Specific Clothing. Cycling- specific clothing
is made with advanced synthetic materials that
have a wiking attribute. This means the fabric
pulls moisture away from your skin and disperses
it throughout the material where it can evaporate
easily, keeping your cool and dry. On longer rides
cycling apparel will be more comfortable and will
maintain your body temperature more effective
than with your normal standard wear. Cycling shorts
also have a "chamois" or a pad built
into the crotch to provide added comfort while
riding. Baggy/Freeride shorts often have a built
in inner short with chamois.
What fabric is used in cycling-clothing.
Most riding gear is made
from advanced synthetic materials. These are often
polyesters design for a specific purpose. Coolmax
for example moves moisture quickly away from the
skin to the outer layer of the fabric. It then
dries that moisture faster than any other fabric
on the market today. Other fabrics used are drylete,
and fieldsensor. These two advanced lycra polyesters
are often used in the production of shorts and
tights. This material is known for the advantages
of being stretchable, durable fade-resistant,
and easy to care for. Cycling apparel made from
these advanced materials will be more comfortable
for long rides than your usual standard wear,
and they will last longer than your inexpensive
cotton basics.
How do I measure my crank arm
length?
Crank arm length is measured in millimeters from
the center of the crank bolt to the center of
the pedal spindle (where the pedal attaches to
the crank arm). The most common sizes for crank
arms are 165mm, 170mm, 172.5mm, 175mm and 180mm.
Crank arm length is generally a function of two
characteristics; leg and riding style.
What I need to know when shopping for a new
crankset?
First make sure your crankset will be compatible
with all your other parts. Secondly make sure
the bottom bracket spindle will be compatible
with your new crankset. The spindle required is
dependant upon the crankset and bike frame selected.
It is imperative that the spindle length is correct
for optimum chain line.
Standard Vs Compact
These two terms refer to the bolt circle diameter
of your chain rings. You can also use chain ring
bolt patterns to measure your cranks. Measure
directly across the ring from bold hole center
to bolt hole center (unless you have 4 bolt cranks,
you wont have a bolt hole there to measure, so
imagine one). The old standard is 110mm for the
large and middle ring, with 74mm for the small
(granny) ring. Compact size is 94mm/58mm respectively.
Conversly, you can also measure between two adjacent
bolts on your chain ring. Compact will measure
55mm and standard will measure 65mm . Note; If
your bike is newer than 1994, you are almost 99%
certain of having compact drive. If you are not
sure, take a ruler and measure from one bolt to
the next adjacent bolt. When buying replacement
chainrings, cranks, or front derailluers, you
must stay with the same format.
What size are the cranks you sell?
Unless it is stated otherwise,
all the cranksets we sell for mountain bikes are
175mm long.
Road cranks are available in a
variety of lengths (170mm, 172.5mm, and 175mm).
Front Derailleurs
Conversion chart
1 1/8" = 28.6mm 1 1/4" = 31.8mm 1 3/8"
= 34.9mm
If you are unsure what size you need, look at
your front derailleur. Some where on the clamp,
the diameter will be stamped in millimeters. You
may have to remove the derailluer as the size
may be stamped on the inside of the clamp. You
will also need to know what pull direction your
derailleur is. This refers to whether the shifter
cable pulls the derailleur from the top or the
bottom, and are called top pull and bottom pull
logically enough.
Is my derailleur Top-Pull or
Bottom-Pull? If the cable approaches
the derailleur from above, it is top pull. If
the cable comes up from underneath the bottom
bracket, it is bottom pull.
Is my derailleur Top-Swing or Bottom-Swing?
If the clamp for the derailleur
is below the pivot (the part that moves to guide
the chain to a different gear), it is considered
top swing. If the clamp for the derailleur is
above the pivot, it is bottom swing.
What does "E-type"
mean? "E-type" refers
to a front derailleur that mounts to the bottom
bracket of your bike instead of clamping onto
your seat tube. This is mainly used on full suspension
bikes that have an interrupted seat tube.
Rear Derailleurs
How does cage length affect shifting?
Shorter cage rear derailleurs take up less chain
slack than a long cage rear derailleur. The chain
is held more snugly, which can result in smoother,
more precise shifting. However, longer cage rear
derailleurs are capable of taking up more chain
slack than a short cage rear derailleur, allowing
you to run a wider range drivetrain than would
be possible with a short cage rear derailleur.
On a mountain bike, your choice is slightly more
difficult. Less experienced riders, or riders
who ride frequently in steep terrain should probably
stick to a long cage rear derailleur. This, combined
with proper chain length, will allow the bike
to be safely shifted into every gear on the bike.
Racers might appreciate the lighter weight and
slight shifting improvement a short cage rear
derailleur offers. However, these benefits come
with a tradeoff - because of the decreased capacity
a short or medium cage rear derailleur offers,
it may not be possible to safely use the small
chainring in tandem with the smallest cogs. (The
derailleur simply can't take up enough slack in
the chain)
For mountain bikes, when in doubt, choose a long
cage rear derailleur, unless you are certain you
understand the limitations of a short/medium cage
derailleur.
SRAM ESP series derailleurs
The SRAM ESP line of components uses a different
cable pull ratio than Shimano components. If you
have a SRAM ESP series rear derailleur, you'll
need to choose matching SRAM ESP shifters.
Can I use a 9-speed derailleur with an 8-speed
cassette? Absolutely. As long
as it can handle the spread on the cassette, you'll
be fine. All reasonably modern derailleurs will
handle this. The derailleur is a "dumb"
component - it does what the shifter tells it
to do.
Do I need a 1" or 1 1/8"
fork? You can measure the
diameter of the steerer tube of your current fork,
which comes down out of your frame where your
fork blades meet above the wheel. This is the
part that runs up into your head tube. Most mountain
bikes require 1 1/8". To be sure, simply
measure the diameter of the tube, the distance
from one side of the outside wall of the tube
to the other. If you are unsure you can always
call our sales department.
Do I need threaded or Threadless?
In a threadless system the fork's steerer tube
will slide through the headtube of your bike and
the stem will clamp on to the portion of the steerer
tube that rises above the headset. In all threaded
systems the fork's steerer tube goes into the
headtube but does not pass through the top of
your headset. In this system the stem (somewhat
"L" shaped) inserts directly into the
headset and fork's steerer tube.
Most new bikes are already threadless, so the
only concern you have is the diameter of the steer
tube (1" , 1 1/8", 1 1/4", 1 1/2"-
inch). You can measure this by loosening and removing
your stem from the fork , and measuring the outer
diameter of the steerer directly. Threadless forks
need to use a threadless headset, and stem. Threaded
forks use a threaded headset and stem with a quill.
Do you sell threaded forks?
No, all our forks are threadless. You can easily
convert your bike to threadless by installing
a new headset and stem.
Consider frame geometry before
purchasing a fork, Unless your frame was designed
specifically for a long travel fork, adding a
shock with a large amount of travel will dramatically
change the handling and geometry of your bike.
Consider a fork with less travel.
Similarly, if you already have a frame with a
long travel rear suspension setup, you'll want
to choose a suitable long travel front fork to
complement the rear suspension.
Please contact our Technical Support Department
for any additional questions at 800-585-4137.
Hold your palm out flat and use
a tape measure around your hand at it's fullest
point, not including your thumb. Use the following
chart to convert to standard glove sizing.
The world of handlebars is getting more and more
complex. As far as MTB handlebars go, there are
2 basic clamp sizes - 25.4 and 31.8. 25.4 is the
most common size. It has been in use for quite
some time. The new oversized bars (31.8) is a
trend that is gaining popularity. If you have
a 25.4 handlebar, you need a 25.4 stem. This is
also true with the 31.8 The oversized stems should
prove to be stronger and stiffer than their smaller
sized bretheren.
Types of handlebars
There are 2 basic handlebars used for off road
riding. There are flat bars and riser bars. Flat
bars are exactly that, flat. They often have a
slight rearward sweep to them, usually 3-5 degrees.
Flat bars lower the rider's position. For XC use,
flat bars create a more aggressive, hunched over
position and weight is more evenly distributed
across the bike. Flat bars are typically lighter
weight because they don't need to be reinforced
at the bending points like a riser bar does. Most
flat bars are 22.5-25" wide.
Riser bars usually have a rise of 1"-2.5"
a slight upward sweep of 3-5 degrees, and a rearward
sweep back towards the ride of 4-9 degrees. Riser
bars elevate the hand position of the rider. This
causes the rider to sit up more, putting more
weight on the rear wheel. Riser bars are usually
wider than flat bars, typically 25-27" wide.
Many people choose to use riser bars because the
width gives them more leverage. Single speeders
love the extra torque they get from using a wider
bar. They also give you more stability. They are
also heavier, because they need to have extra
material to reinforce the areas that bend.
Headset
sizing
There are 3 common headset sizes - 1", 1-1/8",
and 1-1/4". Well, to be honest, 1-1/8"
is the real common size. 1" headsets are
still found on a few road bikes, but are rarely
found on new bikes. The larger size, 1-1/4",
was very often found on Tandems, but are almost
obsolete. The size refers to the diameter of the
steerer tube. There is a new trend, called one
point five (1.5"), which is really big. Some
companies are using this new size for really beefy
Freeride and DH bikes.
Is my headset threaded
or threadless?
You can determine this by looking at the
stem. If your stem is threadless so is your headset.
You can tell if your headset is threadless by
looking at the stem. If your stem clamps directly
onto your fork's steerer tube it is threadless
(there are usually two bolts on the back of the
stem). If your stem slides directly down into
the frame you have a threaded stem, and headset
(the only bolt you see is on top of the stem).
What are headsets typically
made of ?
Headsets are typically made out of either steel
or aluminum. Aluminum is a lighter material, and
is typically found on higher end headsets..
Headset bearings differ in quality, as well as
design. Less expensive headsets usually come with
plain ball bearings in a bearing retainer. They
can be easily repacked and replaced. Some people
prefer the service ability of loose bearings,
but nowadays, more and more companies are coming
out with sealed cartridge bearing headsets. Cartridge
bearings are simple, and don't need the attention
that loose bearings do. Most headsets over $40
will have cartridge bearings.
A lot of people ask what 'stack height' means.
The stack height of a headset is the amount of
space that it takes up. If you add the stack height
to the head tube length and the stem height, (and
any desired spacers), and subtract 2-3mm, you
get the necessary steerer tube length.
Please contact our Technical Support
Department for any additional questions at 800-585-4137.
What is my helmet/glove size?
You can use a measuring tape to determine your
helmet size. Measure your head just above your
eyebrows, and convert the measurement into the
manufactures sizing chart. Please contact us if
you need any assistance.
Helmet Sizes
TO
FIGURE HELMET SIZE NEEDED
Take a
tape measure with inches and measure
around head just above your eyebrow
ridges.
Refer to helmet item for sizes
based on measurements
S/M
M
M/L
L
L/XL
Giro
56-60cm
-
-
-
60-64cm
Bell
53-57cm
55-59cm
56-60cm
59-63cm
-
661
-
55-58cm
-
58-60cm
60-62cm
If you have any questions choosing the correct
Helmet size please contact our customer service
department at 800-585-4137.
Do cleats come with pedals or shoes?
Cleats will come with the pedals and not the shoes.
All clipless pedals will include the cleats, and
all hardware.
Types of Pedals
Your primary choice in pedals is platform vs clipless.
Mtb riders, racers and cross-country mountain
bike riders will probably prefer a clipless system.
In a clipless system, a cleat is mounted to the
bottom of the shoe it snaps into the pedal providing
a firm and secure attachment similar to a ski
binding. The rider can release from the system
by twisting their foot to the side.
Downhill, Freeride, and other aggressive mountain
bikers prefer a platform pedal system, which provides
a flat grippy surface without binding mechanism.
This style of pedal is also ideal for your casual
" around the town" riders who don't
want to bother with special shoes.
What is Spd ? It stands for: SHIMANO PEDAL DYNAMICS and
it describes all of Shimano's current mountain
bike pedals and the sole drilling that their cleat
need.
Spd compatible shoes have 2 or 4 threaded holes
in parallel slots(1or2holes/slot) under the ball
of the foot. The slots are ¨ö" apart and run
front to rear. Many different brands and shapes
of cleat attach using this bolt pattern. For example
speedplay frogs, crank bros eggbeaters, time atac
and Shimano Spd's all require the Spd bolt pattern
but none of their cleats interchange.
Pedal threads.
All modern mountain and road bikes take a 9/16"
pedals. Many Bmx bikes need ¨ö" pedals which
are not compatible.
How do I install my new pedals?
You can use a 15mm wrench for all pedals some
of them also allow for a 8mm allen wrench to be
used. Keep in mind that the left pedal is reverse
threaded, so you screw it counter-clockwise to
tighten, and clockwise to loosen.
What is the easiest way to disengage from my
clipless pedals?
There is definitely a learning curve when you
are adjusting to a new set of pedals especially
if you have never used clipless before. Just turn
your ankle slightly away from your bike and your
cleat will click right out of the pedal. Take
a few rides to get use too, and it will just become
second nature. Keep your pedals clean for them
to release easily, and consistently. Spray off
your pedals with a hose to take all the muck out
and keep the pins and springs lubed with some
thicker oil to reduce wear and tear.
How can I select a comfortable saddle with
so many to choices? Choosing a saddle is a personal matter. There
is no way to guarantee a successful mating of
butt, and saddle. If there is a specific style,
or profile that has been working in the past We
would suggest sticking to a similar style. Remember,
any new saddle will take time to break in, and
the more miles you ride the more comfortable your
saddle gets.
Titanium, or Chromoly rails?
Chromoly rails are often used in most saddles.
Chromoly (Chrome Molybdenum) is a strong, durable
and resist bending, and is not as expensive as
Titanium rails. If you're looking to save a little
more weight on your saddle use Titanium rails.
Titanium rails often require special workmanship,
so these saddles tend to be more expensive than
their chromoly-railed counterparts.
How can I find my seatpost size?
Most seatpost manufactures will stamp the seatpost
size near the maximum height line. If it's not
stamped your local bicycle dealer or the manufacture
of your frame can help you determine the proper
size.
Suspension Seatpost Suspension seatpost add comfort to the ride
of a hardtail frame. It's a simple, and cost effective
upgrade. If you're currently riding a hardtail,
but not ready for a full suspension bike, a suspension
seatpost will definitely bridge the gap. Ask our
technical support about adding a suspension seatpost
to your bike.
What is STI?
Shimano's STI (Shimano Total Integration) merges
the shifters with the brake levers. Shifters are
generally compatible with matching derailleurs.
Example; most 8 speed shifters are compatible
with 8 speed drivetrians, and 9 speed shifters
are compatible with 9 speed drive trains with
very few exceptions.
Grip Shift
SRAM's Grip Shift is also very popular with the
mountain bike set; it integrates the shifter with
the grip, so shifting is accomplished by twisting
a section of the grip itself, much like the throttle
on a motorcycle.
Shifter Compatibility
For mountain bikes, the only notable components
which are NOT interchangeable are the SRAM ESP
series of shifters and derailleurs. SRAM's ESP
shifter pulls a different amount of cable than
Shimano shifters, thus, the two are incompatible.
If you are using a SRAM ESP shifter, you'll need
to choose a matching ESP rear derailleur. (Please
note that SRAM non-ESP shifters ARE compatible
with Shimano derailleurs.)
Please contact our Technical Support
Department for any additional questions at 800-585-4137.
How do I measure the length or extension of
my stem?
The Most important size you need is the clamp
diameter. There are usually four sizes that are
used while purchasing a stem. These are all the
four different sizes. 1", 1 1/8", 1
1/4" or 1 ¨ö". By far, the most common
size is 1 1/8", used on almost all mountain
bikes and many road bikes. Some road bikes use
1". Finally, 1 1/4" is used by a few
rare mountain bikes. Stems also come in various
lengths so you can achieve a more precise fit
on your bike.
Another size that will come across will be the
rise of the stem, and length this depends on what
is comfortable for you. Stems come in different
lengths so that you can get a more comfortable
fit on your bike. If your upper body and arms
are long or you like to be stretched out a bit,
you might like a longer stem. Stems also have
varying degrees of rise so you can really dial-in
your riding position. Freeriders/DH, would prefer
going with a shorter stem to have more control
while descending, and cross country riders would
prefer a longer stem for the steep climbs, but
remember what is comfortable for you. Also some
people with chronic back or neck injuries prefer
stems with a higher rise, so that they sit more
upright on the bike. Many riders like stems with
zero degrees of rise, or even a negative rise,
so they can ride in a more aerodynamic position
as well.
Purchasing the correct stem. Choosing a stem depends on what is comfortable
for you. There are two different styles of stems-
threaded, and threadless style.
The older threaded style, the stem is inserted
inside the fork's steer tube and secured with
a wedge. Newer threadless your stem clamps directly
onto your fork's steer tube there are usually
two bolts on the back of the stem). Modern mountain
and road frames are using the threadless set up.
What is my Shoe/Clothing
size?
Too choose the correct size, you'll need to convert
your American shoe size into a European measurement.
Please see chart below to convert sizes.
U.S
AXO/661
Answer
Shimano
Sidi
6
-
-
39
46-48
6.5
39
40
40
39.5
7
40
-
40.5
40.5
7.5
-
41
41
41
8
41
42
41.5
41.5
8.5
42
42.5
42
42.5
9
43
43
43
43
9.5
-
43.5
44
43.5
10
44
44
44.5
44.5
10.5
-
44.5
45
45
11
45
45
45.5
45.5
11.5
-
46
47
46
12
46
46.5
-
47
12.5
47
47
48
47.5
Advantages of cycling footwear.
Your cycling shoes have stiffer soles than your
basic basketball shoes, and cross trainers. Because
of this, it will allow your pedal stroke to be more
efficient by transferring more power directly through
your foot to the pedals. This translates directly
to comfort on longer rides because your feet don't
have to work as hard. You will be able to ride longer
with out getting cramps or achy feet like you will
normally do with a non cycling shoe. Once you decided
what shoe type, make sure your shoe is compatible
with the pedals you plan to use. On the mountain
side, almost all shoes offer the SPD set up.
What is SPD?
It stands for: SHIMANO PEDAL DYNAMICS and it describes
all of Shimano's current mountain bike pedals
and the shoe sole drilling that their cleats need.
Do cleats come with pedals or shoes?
Cleats will come with the pedals and not the shoes.
All clipless pedals will include the cleats, and
all hardware.
Are my new wheels ready to ride? Yes. You will have to install a rim strip
to cover up the spoke holes and then put your
tires and tubes on, but then they are ready to
go. Wheelsets do need to be checked regularly
during the first few months of riding to make
sure that the spoke tension is maintained as the
wheels break in. True your wheels yourself or
take them to a certified mechanic to have them
trued if you notice any loose spokes or they are
not spinning perfectly straight. All our wheels
come pre-built & trued. Further truing maybe
required AND IS EXPECTED after ridding and is
your responsibility. Bent or broken spokes or
rims are not warranted, nor is inappropriate use.
What is the best set of wheels for me? There really isn't any set of wheels that
is correct for everybody. You should consider
what kind of riding you do and what factors are
most important to you. If you do mostly cross-country
riding and you want light-weight, nimble wheels,
you may sacrifice some strength. If you are downhilling
or freeriding and want something that is more
durable, you should go with something a bit heavier,
with very durable rims and wider tires. Either
way, it is most important to maintain your wheels
and make sure that you have them trued as soon
as any spokes loosen up.
What is the difference in construction of
various wheelsets? Traditional wheelsets are laced together with
32 or 36 spokes. A 36-spoke set-up will tend to
be stronger and more durable, but will also be
heavier. There are many lightweight wheelsets
now available that have alternate spoke designs,
fewer spokes, or even one-piece carbon fiber construction.
The correct choice depends on the kind of riding
you do and how often you will use the wheels -
for example, are they for everyday training or
just for racing?
Please contact our Technical Support
Department for any additional questions at 800-585-4137.
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